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Chlorine, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, salt cell + stabilizer. Here’s what each number does, what happens when it drifts, and why we adjust on the spot.

Most pool problems are chemistry problems caught too late. Algae blooms, cloudy water, eye irritation, equipment damage — they all start with one number drifting that nobody corrected. Here are the five we test on every weekly visit.
Free + total chlorine. The sanitizer that keeps the water safe to swim in. In Sarasota, the sun burns it off faster than almost anywhere — it has to be steady or algae moves in. Target free chlorine: 1 to 3 ppm.
Acid versus base. The single most-often ignored number on a residential pool, and the one that causes the most damage when it drifts. Wrong pH eats your equipment, irritates eyes, and lets algae grow even when chlorine looks fine. Target: 7.2 to 7.8.
pH’s bodyguard. Alkalinity is what keeps the pH from bouncing all over the place. If alkalinity is low, every dose of acid or base sends pH on a rollercoaster. Target: 80 to 120 ppm.
Florida tap water is high-calcium. Too much and you get scaling on the tile line. Too little and the water dissolves your plaster. Target: 200 to 400 ppm. Worth watching closely.
For salt pools: the cell needs the right ppm to generate chlorine, and the stabilizer (cyanuric acid, CYA) needs to be in range or the chlorine doesn’t hold against the sun. Salt: 2,700 to 3,400 ppm depending on the cell. Stabilizer: 30 to 50 ppm.
If something’s off when we test it, we adjust it during the visit — no waiting for a second appointment, no surprise add-ons. Most weeks it’s a small dose of acid or chlorine. Sometimes a shock. Either way, you don’t hear about it. The pool just keeps being swimmable. That’s the quiet part of the job that keeps Sarasota families on the route for over a decade.
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